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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: September 1st, 2023

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  • Yeah, the tablet runs Fully Kiosk and I tried the same thing with the battery percentage thing and ran into the same issue, so I just simplified and made the automation time-based.

    The tablet also likes to freeze a few times a day, so I also created an automation that toggles the smart plug power whenever HA loses connection to the tablet for more than 5 seconds, then toggles back to the original state at the start of the automation, which corrects the problem. Until the next time. But hey! It was only $60, so it’s fine.




  • From top to bottom:

    • Patch panel (with artisinal, handmade cables)
    • TP-Link managed switch Shelf 1:
    • PFSense 4 port firewall
    • Lenovo m910q w/Proxmox (cluster node 1) running 2 VMs for docker hosting: Ubuntu for media stuff (arrs, navidrome, jellyfin, calibre, calibre-web, tubesync, syncthing) and Debian for other stuff (paperless-ngx, vikunja, vscodium, redlib, x-pipe webtop, fasten health, linkwarden, alexandrite), 1 Win 10 VM for the very few times I need to use windows, some Red Hat Academy student and instructor RHEL 9 VMs, and an OPNsense VM for testing Shelf 2:
    • HP Elitedesk G5 800 SFF w/Proxmox (cluster node 2) with an Nvidia GT 730 passed through to a Debian VM used primarily as a remote desktop via ThinLinc, but also runs a few docker containers (stirling pdf, willow application server, fileflows)
    • Shuttle DH110 w/Proxmox (cluster node 3) with 1 VM running Home Assistant OS with an NVME Coral TPU passed through as well as a zooz 800 long range zwave coordinator (the zigbee coordinator is ethernet and in a different room) and two LXCs with grafana and prometheus courtesy of tteck (RIP) Shelf 3:
    • WIP Fractal R5 server to replace the ancient Ubuntu file server to the left (outside the rack, sitting on the box of ethernet cable) that is primarily the home of my media drives (3 12 TB Ironwolf drives) and was my first homelab server. The new box will have a Tesla p4 and RX 580 GTX, i7-8700T and 64GB RAM in addition to the drives from the old server. I’ll be converting the Ubuntu drive from the old server into an image and will use it to create a Proxmox VM on the new server, with the same drives passed through. Bottom:
    • 2 Cyberpower CP1000 UPS with upgraded LiFePO4 batteries. The one on the left is only for servers and only exists to give the servers time to shut down cleanly when the power goes out. The one on the right is only for network devices (firewall, switch and the Ruckus R500 out of shot mounted higher in the closet)





  • Depends on the fridge, in my opinion. I don’t need any door sensors because my fridge will beep at me if I leave a door open for 12 microseconds, and the freezer is pretty reliable, it’s just the fridge that needs adjusting from time to time.

    I just use a ThirdReality smart plug with energy monitoring primarily so I can see power consumption, but I still contend that this combined with the temp sensor is enough to let me know if there’s a problem when I’m not home.

    Also a 20 year IT person, but on the Linux server side. I do have an isolated network for IoT things that don’t have local alternatives (pfsense hardware firewall, 24 port managed switch in the rack and ruckus APs), but I hate (hate) the enshittification of perfectly good hardware with software that exists solely to harvest my data so a corporation can have an additional revenue stream for the shareholders, and I will go pretty far out of my way to avoid giving money to companies that do this. Dreading the day my beloved dumb LG plasma TV dies.

    What hardware are you running your HA instance on? Mine runs in an HAOS Proxmox VM with the USB port for the zwave dongle (for the locks) passed through. ZigBee coordinator is ethernet, so it’s just plugged into a switch in the living room.


  • I’ve been using a cheap Aqara temp/humidity sensor in my fridge for years. Works fine, as I said. Many others do the same. There’s a lot more plastic in fridges than you might expect.

    My ZigBee devices use an ethernet based coordinator which communicates with my Home Assistant install via MQTT. The coordinator software is called Zigbee2MQTT. The coordinator does not send any data anywhere except Home Assistant.

    There are many easy ways to keep your data local and private while still allowing notification when you’re away from home. In my case, I pay $65/year to Nabu Casa to access my Home Assistant when I’m not at home.

    I use a very similar setup to keep an eye on my mom’s place from 500 miles away, including many sensors and multiple camera feeds, which are also local only with no cloud component. Frigate NVR is installed as a Home Assistant add-on, which runs detection on each camera feed and records clips when a person is detected on any feed and also pops a notification at the same time. If she wants to save a clip, she can download it, otherwise it’ll be deleted after 5 days (configurable).

    There are other ways to get access to local data remotely. If you don’t want to pay for Nabu Casa (which funds Home Assistant development), there’s also Tailscale/headscale, ZeroTier, Cloudflare, DuckDNS, reverse proxy, etc.

    You could also just have Home Assistant send you an email when an event is triggered, like a rise of 2 degrees in your fridge in an hour, or a drop of 20% in energy usage over 30 minutes.

    Or you could just have a notification pop in the Home Assistant app on your phone, which will work remotely with most of the methods I just listed.

    EDIT: Didn’t respond to your last paragraph:

    I get that you’re very afraid of the security implications of iot devices, but none of the ideas you’re proposing are actually solutions to the problems a truly connected device can solve.

    I’m not “very afraid”, I’m simply aware of better alternatives. Why would I risk the security of my network by giving Samsung or GE or LG a backdoor into my network when I can get most of the same information their app can give me by using cheap sensors and Home Assistant?


  • IoT is essentially a catch-all marketing term, like “organic”, and if I’m not mistaken, the “I” in IoT stands for “internet”. ZigBee devices cannot connect to the internet. Doing so requires a hub or coordinator that contains WiFi or ethernet connectivity. There are many ZigBee coordinators that lack this functionality, which allows your data to stay local, on your own network, without exposing it to the internet.

    I never claimed that a smart plug could monitor the temperature inside a fridge, but there are certainly ZigBee temperature devices you could put inside your fridge to do that, and they would work just fine.

    A ZigBee smart plug with energy monitoring would certainly give you enough information to determine if the compressor had failed, as the compressor is the component that uses the most power. If the energy usage of the fridge dropped significantly, it could indicate a compressor failure. While this method isn’t foolproof and won’t detect all possible fridge issues, it can serve as an early warning system for major problems like compressor failure.