This; works on Mull; there is no submit button, it just constantly refreshes the results and thus is slow AF from continuously juggling the data.

Run the VPN right from the device itself, allowing for DNS blocking of whatever you want. Previously, Blokada was used, now Rethink DNS is preferred.

He’s still in it for the fascist coup.

Employees can daily clean as much of the machine as they can access, and there will still be a bit of black biofilm in there (not mold). The same biofilm lives down in all of your sink drains.

I was recommended by a well-known privacy guide to use Rethink with AhaDNS Blitz, but it seems to fail often; nothing resolves until the VPN is stopped and restarted. Any ideas or advice?

Maybe they’ve finally fixed those problems. In Lakka, I set my controller up once (for each unique controller) in RetroArch frontend, and then it works in any emulator core. I don’t think it’s normal to have to set up the controller in each core (but you can, if you want or need to!)

EmuDeck uses EmulationStation, in which I’ve seen a lot of controller-related problems. Controllers working in the menu but not in the emulators. Controllers working in the emulators but not in the menus.

For a dedicated emulation machine, I’ll once again shill for Lakka, that boots LibreELEC directly into RetroArch without EmulationStation, and has bootable installers for multiple configurations of x86_64 machines and images for loads of single-board computers.

Lots of arcade games and other amusement machines made in the last twenty years run on desktop Linux.

Incredible Technologies games, Raw Thrills/Play Mechanix Big Buck Hunter Pro, Arachnid dartboards, and TouchTunes jukeboxes off the top of my head.

Rumor is that Trump offered RFK Jr, an anti-vaccination conspiracy theorist, the position of Secretary of Health and Human Services.

Interesting like watching a train go off a broken bridge into a ravine.

Sorry. If there is a keyboard key or other input event to scroll it, you could set a touchscreen gesture to emulate that input?

getting gutting (or cutting)

I admit to doing stuff like this to Dells and no-name cases. 😂 It’s usually to fit a more common standard PSU though. One time, I put the power supply in the 5 1/4" bay and flipped the rear fans.

Modern US plugs have a wide blade for “neutral” or “return path” and a narrow blade for “live” or “hot” (plus the round ground pin). In my part of the US, we only have GFCI near water (restrooms and kitchen) but always proper circuit breakers and ground to water pipes where the mains AC enters. There still exist many 2-prong appliances, but those will never have the case connected electrically!

If you don’t have a proper earth ground, then tying anything together is bad news. You could have one appliance shorting out and damaging others on the same circuit, or burning your wires in the wall. Regarding the PC switch-mode supply, AC in goes to a transformer which doesn’t care if hot and neutral are swapped.

Sorry if I sounded like a jerk. I’ve been working on PCs and appliances for decades and only once ever had an energized case; not a PC. Touching two machines each plugged into a seperate circuit, got a metallic taste in my mouth, pulled out the meter and measured ~80VAC! Verified my vending machine and outlet were wired correctly and recommended getting their popcorn machine and outlet checked out.

plugged in US power outlets with reversed pins (so 110 volts now runs through the metal case

PC power supplies don’t work the way you think they do.

Does double tap and drag work?

Meaning: tap, lift, tap without lifting, drag.

You are correct.

One can solder in a temporary “helper battery” (or 3V power supply) to the same traces but in a different spot, to keep the SRAM alive while the real battery is replaced.

Some later games (GBA-era) use Flash memory and the battery is just for the clock.

sudo make-me-one

Japan also got Game Boy Light, which is a Game Boy Pocket with green EL backlighting (like Indiglo).

I can’t even get this Brother to scan to a flash drive in its own USB port. It acts like it’s successful; it scans and no errors show up… but the files just aren’t there. Tried multiple USB drives and made sure they were formatted to FAT32 in a sector size that Brother recommended in the manual.

Printing to it from Debian was even easier than expected, though. Plug it in, it shows up as a networked printer, and you print to it.

I have a similar PATA enclosure. I thought it was cursed until I got to reuse the A-A cable to upload FlashFloppy custom firmware to Gotek floppy emulators without wiring up a USB-serial adaptor.